You need to know what type of soil is on your farm. Soils can vary widely, even within the same acre. The type of soil will influence:
Type and quantity of grass that the land can produce
How easily the soil can erode
How well water drains from the soil
How often irrigation or water sprinkling is needed
What type and how much fertilizer is required
The different types of soil are sand, silt, clay and loam. The predominant type of soil at your farm determines its water drainage, nutrient holding capacity, and irrigation needs. Sand is the largest particle in the soil. When rubbed, it feels rough because it has sharp edges. Sandy soil doesn't hold many nutrients. Silt is a medium-sized soil particle, whose size is between sand and clay. Silt feels smooth and powdery. When wet it feels smooth but not sticky. Clay is the smallest of particles. Clay is smooth when dry and sticky when wet. Soils high in clay content are called heavy soils. Clay also can hold a lot of nutrients, but doesn't let air and water through it well. Loam is a combination of all three.
The type of soil can be judged by feel. The fertility of your soil must be determined by testing. Contact your local county agricultural extension agent to determine sources for conducting soil testing. This service is free.
Soil Amendments
After your soil has been analyzed, you can determine what amendments to apply on your farm. Lime is crushed limestone that will raise the Ph level of your soil. The soil test will also help you decide which fertilizer blend of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus to apply to the soil and how many pounds per acre are required.
The next best soil amendment is to apply compost to add natural nutrients and to move both sandy and clay soils towards the ideal of a loamy soil. You should collect and compost alpaca manure and mower grass clippings. Let your compost rest all year, and then spread it in very early Spring. I recommend the use of a mechanical manure spreader that you can drag behind a riding lawn mower.
Controlling Weeds
Weeds rob nutrients from the soil. Weeds that bear burrs are very detrimental to alpaca ranching, because the burrs get into the alpaca fleece, and fleece with burrs has no commercial value. It's best to start controlling and eliminating weeds in early Spring to prevent the production of weed seeds. Most weeds are annuals that propagate by producing seed. If you cut the weeds before they go to seed, you have eliminated many of next year's weeds. I recommend the use of a collection unit behind your riding mower, so that cut weed seeds are not left on the ground. Instead put cut weeds into a compost pile. However, weed control by itself is not enough. You also need to change what caused weeds to become established on your land. Listed below are some other ways to control weeds
Prevention. Avoid over-grazing your alpacas, so they don't create bare spots for weeds. Buy weed free hay. Plant certified seed. Wash your vehicles after being in a weed-infested area. Monitor your property and respond quickly to any new weed infestations.
Mechanical. Mow weeds regularly before they go to seed. Typically different types of weeds will emerge as the season changes. Pull small weed patches and weeds near streams by hand to prevent the seeds from propagating downstream. Another effective non-chemical technique is to cover weed or briar patches with tarpaulins until they die, although it is necessary to reseed the bare ground that this produces to keep weeds from becoming re-established.
Herbicides. Use of certain herbicides requires a pesticide applicator's license from your state. Improper use of herbicides can make your alpacas sick or cause death.
Herbicides can be effective when properly applied. Read the label instructions carefully and follow directions. Use chemicals away from water to avoid harming you, your alpacas, and to prevent pollution of streams and ground water. Only certified pesticide applicators can use restricted herbicides. Call a local farm supply store to find out about hiring custom chemical applicators to spray your weeds. Be sure herbicides will not reach and kill desirable trees and shrubs. Dispose of leftover chemicals at hazardous waste facilities, or as instructed on the label directions. Keep your alpacas off sprayed areas long enough to insure that the herbicides have dissipated to a safe level. Length of time for animal removal will be on the label directions.
Virginia Lyons owns Able Oaks Ranch Alpacas in East Texas. She has been breeding and raising elite alpacas and miniature llamas with persistently fine fiber since 2003. Virginia is an experienced weaver and teaches workshops and hosts free events about alpaca ranching, alpaca fiber, and much more.
Suttorstud Farm Supply Store
Holistic Management: manufacturing carbon in soil takes place when the plant is grazed
Frequently Asked Questions...
What equipment do you need if your horse is staying at another farm?
What supplies does only your horse need? Like does it need a hoof pick if the farm already have some? Can you name the supplies I need if it is staying at another farm?
Answer:
In my opinion I always like to have my own horse tack whether it is just a hoof pick or not. Just either put your name or your horses name on everything and I will give you a list of what you should always have of your own. Cause if you have your own stuff you will look responsible and plus you will alwaysknow where it is if you go to a show then you can bring the tack and grooming supplies with you because it is your belongings.
- hoof pick
- brushes
- combs
- fly spray
- fly masks
- shampoo
- conditioner
- treats
- bits
- bridles
- halters
- leads
- blankets
- saddles/ saddle
- winter blankets
- First Aid Kit
- Vet Wrap
- Thrush Buster
I hope that I could help
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